Hi,

Have used this site a lot and just wanted so say that it's a great source for information and inspiration regarding the TR1 bike! Good work Manfred & Co! [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

Also posting a few pic's on my ongoing project and a link below to a swedish forum with a (loong) thread for the project... Latest idea is to add 16" spoked wheels...

Cheers!
/Mr

link thread: http://www.sporthoj.com/forum/showthread.php?185543-Yamaha-TR1-bygge-(Byggd-p%E5-vilken-hoj-)
link larger pic's of below: http://www.sporthoj.com/forum/showthread.php?185543-Yamaha-TR1-bygge-(Byggd-p%E5-vilken-hoj-)&p=5157987&viewfull=1#post5157987

Wheel upgrade done and engine renovated :)

Question: Does anyone know where to find camshafts and rockers arms for a reasonable price? Will need to shift them sooner or later.

pic as is:

Waht for Hell, is this Frontlight ??? :o :o :o .. It looks so big, that like it.

I'm looking for, you can say what it was ??

Odin wrote:

Waht for Hell, is this Frontlight ??? :o :o :o .. It looks so big, that like it. I'm looking for, you can say what it was ??

Just the original TR1 frontlight :) Might look a bit different since I cleaned off everything around it + lowered it + 16" / 130 tyre at the front... but still just the original light.

But good that you think it looks big 'cause that's the purpose  ;)

Okay, i have forgot, how big the Light is ...  ;D ;D ;D it looks in this position different  ;D ;D

Yes, your frontweel looks also great, but we here in Germany, will have a lot of Problem with "Technical Monitoring Association for Vehicles", its call TÜV  ::), they dont like technological changes at vehicles, and when, then only with a lot of evidence and discusion whit the Technical Monitoring Association  >:(
My luck its, that my Bike its so odl, an my chances also, that they says nothing more, because all this chances are made in the 80´teen of last centuri  ;D ;D

Odin wrote:

Okay, i have forgot, how big the Light is ...  ;D ;D ;D it looks in this position different  ;D ;D Yes, your frontweel looks also great, but we here in Germany, will have a lot of Problem with "Technical Monitoring Association for Vehicles", its call TÜV  ::), they dont like technological changes at vehicles, and when, then only with a lot of evidence and discusion whit the Technical Monitoring Association  >:( My luck its, that my Bike its so odl, an my chances also, that they says nothing more, because all this chances are made in the 80´teen of last centuri  ;D ;D

;) Yes, it's a bit easier with modifications on bikes here in Sweden.

Noone who has tips regarding to camshafts/rocker arms? I was hoping to find a good & cheap source in Germany... :)

At your problem with the camshafts / rocker  :(

Ill have same of the camshafts or rocker´s , but not for yours engine  >:(, if look in my small garage, if thre same one of the TR1 or Xv1000, but actual they are all from a Xv750se 81-84  :-[
Maybe I get some parts, at the end of month, but not sure.

I was looking on ebay nl, ebay uk ebay and all ... no one has few are  :-[

Thanks Odin!

I got the advice to also check the possibility to renovate the ones I got, apparently that's possible in some cases. Will check that with some local motor repair shops.

Can you please tell where you buy these Rear Sets.

Cool forum, du gjorde i Sverige.
Men jag kan inte läsa, jag förstår ingenting  ;D ;) (JOKE)

???? was soll dasheißen odin

Max wrote:

Can you please tell where you buy these Rear Sets.

Everything at the rear is "home made" including the rear seat. The seat I made is very simple as is, will probably make a new one when I get the time...

There are some pics in the thread, included here in the first post, regarding how the seat was build. But again nothing fancy & home made...

Odin wrote:

Cool forum, du gjorde i Sverige. Men jag kan inte läsa, jag förstår ingenting  ;D ;) (JOKE)

Haha, Gott sei Dank für Google Translator!  ;)

mrmadmax wrote:

[quote author=Odin link=1323532035/0#9 date=1336052782]Cool forum, du gjorde i Sverige. Men jag kan inte läsa, jag förstår ingenting  ;D ;) (JOKE)

Haha, Gott sei Dank für Google Translator!  ;)[/quote]

Jeep ....  Good save Googel  ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D

@MrMadMax ...  if read ( in the swensca forum) that you have same Problem with the electric ??? :-? :-?
It´s actualy agin the problem ???  :o

Odin wrote:

@MrMadMax ...  if read ( in the swensca forum) that you have same Problem with the electric ??? :-? :-? It´s actualy agin the problem ???  :o

I've got it sorted yesterday!  :) Had a broken cable which took me some tome to find. I've got the bike almost all together again today, just need to put the front light in place again with all the cabling...  :P

After that I should be good to go again for the season. Some minor things to fix such as the rear seat, adjust front wheel which is slightly unbalanced at 100+ km/h...

Edit: I still think I got a problem with the neatral indicator. I can live with that problem but will check the switch when I have the time...

mrmadmax wrote:

Edit: I still think I got a problem with the neatral indicator. I can live with that problem but will check the switch when I have the time...

For neutral switch, I guess, you have problem, which indicates not always the light green?
This is normal, the switch is not always immediate position.  ::)

Can also be cable, because cable break after 30 years old.
At the neutral switch, the cable is fastened with screws.

Odin wrote:

[quote author=mrmadmax link=1323532035/10#15 date=1336154309] Edit: I still think I got a problem with the neatral indicator. I can live with that problem but will check the switch when I have the time...

For neutral switch, I guess, you have problem, which indicates not always the light green?
This is normal, the switch is not always immediate position.  ::)

Can also be cable, because cable break after 30 years old.
At the neutral switch, the cable is fastened with screws.
[/quote]

Exactly :)

But today when I put everything together again even the neutral indicator worked (at least for now). I figure I sooner or later have to check and clean the switch. Thanks for your advice! :)

Max wrote:

Can you please tell where you buy these Rear Sets.

omars do one for the TR1

http://www.omarsdtr.com/FY36.JPG

Have a little oil leakage and spotted that it came from the neutral indicator switch on the left side. Thought that I first just should try to tighten it to see if it would help but is snapped! Can turn it now with some force without locking it.  :'(  Something broke, I hope it wasn't the threading in the engine block. Tightened it as good as I could, we'll see if it leaks even more oil now...

Question, anyone who has experience from these neutral indicators? Do they often leak? Just from gasket or from the "inside"? Easy to break with too high torque? (Even if I did not use much force.)

Just checking if any comments before I take the time to drain the oil and unscrew the damn thing... Possibly need to buy a new one or in worst case try to repair threads in the engine block.

Thanks for any help!  :)

Hey .... this is stupid ... perhaps that is broken, the neutral indicator.
Yes, there may be something broken, because the part is brass, it is hollow inside and is only a pen with Ferder.
The indicator is also built into the 1700xvs, so you can get, maybe I need to lie some more, must first seek.
Replace the oil must NOT be released.

Odin wrote:

Hey .... this is stupid ... perhaps that is broken, the neutral indicator. Yes, there may be something broken, because the part is brass, it is hollow inside and is only a pen with Ferder. The indicator is also built into the 1700xvs, so you can get, maybe I need to lie some more, must first seek. Replace the oil must NOT be released.

Thanks Odin. Let's hope it's broken, will have closer look this weekend. Have asked my local dealers if they have the part in store...

What do mean with your last sentence "Replace the oil must NOT be released"?

Attaching also a pic of new front wheel. If anyone is going for 16" front I can recommend Avon Venom-X 130 wide, perfect fit with just enough space to the forks (several mm! ;))

It was broken... Just have to get a new one, was a bit expensive at my local dealer... :(

FUCK .....  why you dont ask us here .... i have one oder more .... must only seek.
An a but the price, we have found a very fair way ...  ;)

Odin wrote:

FUCK .....  why you dont ask us here .... i have one oder more .... must only seek. An a but the price, we have found a very fair way ...  ;)

Thanks again Odin. I scanned Ebay and got hold of one for a very nice price. In case of any problems with that I will send you a note. Thanks again!

No Prob  ;)

Edition 2014 almost done... (poor pic, sorry fot that)  :)

... but I have some problems with how much oil to fill in the front forks. I think I've seen both 264cc and 278cc as recommended. In addition I have shortened the legs with 35mm with a distance inside the innerleg, not sure if this impacts the needed amount of oil. Now I put 278cc which left 140mm of air up to the top of the leg (when pressed to the bottom without springs).

If I remember correctly I think I had a similair set-up last year and it was OK in general but stiff when running over sharper bumbs. I think I reduced the amount of oil in the forks a bit but I don't think it made any major change.

Ideas regarding amounts of oil for the TR1 with this set-up? Thanks!  [smiley=funny_4.gif]

Been driving a bit with 278cc oil in the forks, also cut the spring just a bit (15mm or so) and not much air pressure. Still a bit stiff but not as bad as last year...

Considering to put on a steering damper, been searching on the net to see if someone done that on a TR1 & if so what solution. Any ideas?

Evening pic as well from the other week, almost complete. Sadle has to be made properly and steering damper wanted...

Cheers!
:)

Oh so beautiful....... this is my taste in style
my respect
how did you do it so beautifully gleaming the engine. He looks so powerful

mrmadmax wrote:

steering damper wanted...

This fat front tire is likely to cause such problems. Try and reduce it to a 120 and You will probably feel no need for a steering damper.


Cheers,
Stefan

Bocki wrote:

Oh so beautiful....... this is my taste in style my respect how did you do it so beautifully gleaming the engine. He looks so powerful

Thanks!

The engine is no magic, just regular engine paint (motip).

Adding a older pic from the other side of the engine if you are interessted. Otherwise there is a ton of pic's in my building thread http://www.sporthoj.com/forum/showthread.php?185543-Yamaha-TR1-bygge-(Byggd-p%E5-vilken-hoj-) a Swedish forum... This is actually my forth edition of this same bike...  :D

stefan stein wrote:

[quote author=mrmadmax link=1323532035/20#27 date=1368642409] steering damper wanted...

This fat front tire is likely to cause such problems. Try and reduce it to a 120 and You will probably feel no need for a steering damper.


Cheers,
Stefan
[/quote]

Thanks!

The concept with my build includes as fat tires as possible so reducing to smaller size is not on my list for the moment  ;) Actually it works better than expected with the fat front tyre. Had the same set up last year for a few thousands km of driving, incl long trips and active driving.

The problem I have is that when driving very actively on small curvy roads and hitting a bump in the road then it's  getting a bit nervous...  :-? No surprice with old front forks, TR1 frame, shortened in the front, fat tyre etc... So I figure a steering damper would calm things down when hitting a big bump (small roads in Sweden can be in pretty bad shape after long cold winters with ice & snow).

I actually found one TR1 build with a steering damper, pretty great building in progress, especially the engine re-work, have a look. But the steering damper solution I was not impressed of so I am looking for a smoother solution. --> http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?259391-Yamaha-TR1-XV920R-Project

Cheers!  :)

Look for your spring of your rear suspension! It is to hard after the slow part. You need a linear One!
S.

Sepp wrote:

Look for your spring of your rear suspension! It is to hard after the slow part. You need a linear One! S.

Thanks, excellent!

Haven't thought about that but it sounds reasonable. Thinking about it I also get a hit in the rear in these bumps and of Course that adds to the problem.

Can I change the spring only? Had a look previous year and disambly of the rear shock seemed tricky.

Or better to change the complete chock? Any ideas of a more modern direct fit? Possibly a bit shorter would be fine :)

New front tyre (still 130) and my bike is much more stable, the Avon tyre was not completely round.

Might do something about rear and front shocks during the coming winter or/and add a steering damper.

Problem: Had some oil leakage (during really tough riding on curvy roads on hills) on left side where the clutch rod /pin comes out. Checked the manual for seals or similair that could be leaking but could not find any. Are there any seals that can leak and be changed on the TR1? Would be good to now before I tear it a part.

Adding picks from the ride where the (minor) leakage occured. Nice roads in Norway.  :)