TR1 1981 fork cap  problems
I started to upgrade  the forks with new seals and progressive springs when I noticed one of the fork caps which (is held in place by  the cir clip) had been forced down past the actual groove (where the cir clip mounts) so i removed the cir clip
and gave the fork cap a couple taps with rubber hammer to see if would break free
but it refused to move
I have since left it soaked in  penetrating oil put seems to be seized  tight in the fork tube
any advice would be great

HELPPPP

Halo tophased,
I hope I understand your problem correctly.
Just try to warm up with the fork with a hot air gun. When everything is hot, maybe you can push down the cap with a clamp.

Good luck, Karsten

I would ty to push the fork together and give a few beats on its top with a metal hammer. Keep the face away! Or screw out the air-valve, turn a screw into the plug and try to pull it out with that screw.

Bye,
Georg

Hallo tophased, hallo Georg

I wouldn´t beat on the top of the cap with a metal hammer, because it´s very easy to damage the chamfer, where the Oring sits.
Georg´s second proposal is much better, but you need a srew with, if I remember correctly, M7x1 thread.

Best regards, Karsten

Gredner wrote:

I wouldn´t beat on the top of the cap with a metal hammer

I didnt mean to beat on the plug, i think someone has already done that. Thats why the plug is stuck inside the tube. Try to beat on the tube.

Bye,
Georg

Hi,

that's quite normal.
First loosen the upper srew of the fork bridge, just a bit, to make sure that there is no pressure around the tube.
Then use a tube or someting round and hollow that is smaller in diameter than the fork's tube. Put this on the cap and use it as a chisel.
You may use a real hammer for this, because there is nothing You can damage inside. As soon as the cap gets loose, You will feel the spring going down. May be You will have to press the cap down and let it come up again a couple of times, until the cap pops finally out of the tube.
When You have let the air pressure out of the fork (!), and there are the original, weak, flat springs inside it, You don't have to fear much. The cap won't pop out for more than two inches.

Cheers,

Stefan

The cap should break free this way. Anyway make sure that You use a good lubrificant.
There is absolutely nothing inside that can block the cap seriously in this position. That's why I suggest to hammer it further down. The spring will do the rest.
It seems that someone tried but did not manage to get the cap out before. After 30 years there is so much dirt between the cap and the tube. Worst are the bikes that have been standing out in the cold and the rain.

Just hang on,

Stefan

thanks guys
ended up spraying half can of Loctite freeze and release lubricant on to the cap
while using a bike (air) hand pump and to crease the pressure in the fork ( i had to change the seals too)
a couple of little taps on the cap with a socket and hammer . that worked
the cap shot across the garage  like a rocket taking out a set of works lights !
except now the air valve on the cap is trashed !!
oh well at least it came out !!

You could have killed yourself with that air gun. It's no good idea to pump the fork up like that. The force of the spring is more than sufficient.

Stefan

hi Stefan thanks for your concern
but don't worry
I used a bicycle  hand pump not an air compressor !!

Hello all and sorry for the resurrection again.

I have a question before I engage on this job.

How is the cap/circlip removed. I never had a bike with such fork.

I know the asnwer must be in the service manual, I asking if there are any tricks for this.

Evros

Hello Evripidis,
I guess you want to remove the Cap to take out the springs inside of the fork-tube?

If it is so, remove the Steering bar to get enough space. Be careful , so that no Brake fluid escapes from the reservoir and perhaps damage other parts, e.g. your Fuel-Tank.

To remove the Caps it self you will need
 - a small Screwdriver with blade end, /(for slotted screws),
 - a Wrench Nut which fits to the Air Valve hex, and a suitable tool to get more distance for better workspace.
1. Take the wrench Nut assembly onto the hexagon socket of the air Valve
2. Puch down the Cap, enough so that the circlip inside is fully visible.
3. with the Screwdriver you can level out the beginning of the circlip. But be aware that the circlip is not jumping away. It it difficult to find it.
   It is a little bit tricky, but it will coming out.
4. Now let the plug (Cap) coming out by releasing pressure. If the Plug is not coming out at the first time, try again to push the plug into the Fork Tube and than release the pressure of holding down immediately. If necessary try it several times.
Reason could be some dirt inside, or a little bit of deformation of the grove of the circlip.

Regards Anja

Hallo Anja,

Thank you this makes sense now.

In reality I only want to replace the fork seals. The entire fork does not have to be taken apart, but I am afraid that I might damage the surface by trying to prise out the seal. I have done it before but I am afraid to do it on this bike.

Evros

Hello Evripidis,
one  at first. My Description belongs to the removing of the Fork-Tube-Caps (Imags No: 15/38) with the Air valve in it.

Do you want to change the Oil seals of the Fork?
If you want to go ahead with your scheduled Replacement, be aware not to scratch the inner Tube !!!

Primary, it would be better to take the Front Fork Units out and fix them on your bench.

I have attached to images with parts of the Fork Assembly:
8 /31 = Dust Cover
4/27 = Circlip of the Oil-Seal
3/26 = Oil-Seal

Regards Anja