Hello to all the TR1 people.
Sorry for my bad English language.
I'm newbie guy from Finland here and I bought -81 TR1 in this summer , I'm going to make major changes to the bike under next winter.Earlier I have restored the old bikes (5) and now I think to modify a bit younger bike.
I thought to putting both of the carburetor own air filters, can I leave of the hoses where is valves?? and goes to the air filter.
Someone must have done the same, which is the air filter what works well and what changes have to do?
The biggest changes comes to the frame and the rear end,certainly I still have many questions before the bike is ready.The exhaust pipe will be completely new,I think that it can not buy from the store so it have to do self.
If anyone is interested, I can put pictures of the progress.

Hei Markku,
greets from Varkaus! Yes, please post some of your progress pictures.
I'm on a similar re-build, but basis is a XV920, shaft drive. Front swap to upside-down (MT-01) is done, rear shock came from Wilbers. I got a KJS 2in1 intake plus Mikuni TM40 carb. Sub-frame and an exhaust of a Ducati 999 wait for fit-on.
T:Tom.

Edit: KJS manifold and K&N pod filter: http://www.kjsmotorcycleworks.com/vstarVirago.html

Hello and Merry Christmas

I've been starting to do the little changeing in my bike.
I have not received a reply from the carburetor rubber hoses.
I do not know how to put photos here.

There is some pics.    http://finnbikers.fi/foorumi/index.php?topic=10209.0

http://www.tr1.de/yabbfiles/Attachments/autosave/lh5-googleusercontent-com__Runko82B289122Bx2B68429.jpeg

WOH ....  what for nice frame ...  :D :D

If you want to show pictures without burdening forum server, take this tool:
www.picr.de

The tool comes from Germany, thus description in German, but to use very simple and without advertising.
Can also use in Finland  ;)

Markku wrote:

I do not know how to put photos here

Unfortunately the forum software only allows 1 picture to be attached. But attaching this one picture works and is easy  ;)
For more than one picture within 1 post please use a free picture hoster as Odin already suggested.

Manfred

Hello
Some progress in building.
The colors have been selected and the next the body and other parts to the painter.

-and thanks to Odin, PicR is a handy system.

Hello

Chopper building is a bit proceed.I have connected the electrical wires and I think that the diode inside in the headlamp is broken.Do someone know what kind of resistor values should come from the three wires?Do someone know what kind of the diode internal connection is,if it is broken it could probably do it yourself.

I reply myself to myself.Everything now ok, the diode was not broken,in my connection was a mistake.
I had to make changes to the wiring because the instrument changed to Koso RX2-NR and the handlebars changed to the other and the frame is longer, etc., Etc.

Hey .... sorry I used the google translate, so do not pay attention to the gramatik.
So I have you understood that you thought your defective rectifier.
Because you have written diodes and three cable.
In the front lamp are no diodes .... if you need a paln for electrics, I can help you ... but fallow data about your needs and what you have in parts .... then I can create you something.

Hello
In the headlight there is an diode box,if you look at the wiring diagram so you can see it.
In my modell the diode has only three wires.
The diode is connected, inter alia,oil switch and neutral switch.

http://i59.tinypic.com/dmcpk2.jpg

http://www.viragotech.com/wiring/us_uk_XV750SE_TR1.jpg


           Markku

Oh, I understand now up now ... You mean diode block this block .... I did not even go.
If you want to convert to a minimum Electrics, then you can throw far away in the lake finischen block. This block is switched so if you do not have enough oil, the engine will not start. This can be very annoying when times the sensor too little OIL reports, while you still have a lot of oil in the engine. The sensor is very sensitive (typical of Yamaha).

Voi, ymmärrän nyt nyt ... Tarkoitatko diodi Tässä lohkossa .... en edes mene.
Jos haluat muuntaa vähintään Electrics, niin voit heittää kaukana järven finischen lohko. Tämä lohko on kytketty, joten jos sinulla ei ole tarpeeksi öljyä, moottori ei käynnisty. Tämä voi olla erittäin ärsyttävää, kun ajat anturin liian vähän öljyä raportit, kun hiljaa on paljon öljyä moottoriin.Anturi on erittäin herkkä (tyypillinen Yamaha).

Do you want to have a minimum of Electrical ??
Then I can help you, we have a plan, with the total minimum of Electrical .... and that is going well, drive myself so for years

Haluatko olla vähintään Sähkö ??
Sitten voin auttaa sinua, meillä on suunnitelma, jossa yhteensä vähintään Sähkö .... ja että menee hyvin, ajaa itseäni niin vuosia

Voin kertoa teille myös luoda sähköinen suunnitelma suomeksi, pienimmän sähkö-
Katso tästä:
http://www.tr1.de/pages/technics_wiring.php
http://www.tr1.de/technics/wiring/simple_uk_XV750SE_TR1.jpg

Jos tarvitset toimittaja kaapeli väreissä, voin auttaa sinua

Hello
Thanks for the help, I am somewhat simplified electrical connections and today I got all ready.
"Here in Finland are a lot of lakes and there I tried to throw the extra parts but the lakes are now frozen so I threw them to the f..k".
Yes I would still change the connection to your model according to, it would be more reliable in operation.
If someone should plan a switch to the original connection so that the backups can connect off.

The bike starts to be a point condition but when the roads are covered with ice and we have snow guite much so can not even try drive.

Okay ..... then you have seen the Electrical Plan (Simple electrics), less of cable is hardly.
I try to be at next weekend to make you the plan in your language

Hello
Here is my modified circuit diagram applied to the Koso Rx2N meter.
The oil level warning light works but it does not affect to the other.

:-? :-? Why yoh have made the Relay in to the Oli Cabel ??

Hello

In the original coupling the light works by grounding principle but in the Koso instrument the light have to get voltage to work.

Ah .....  god to know ...  because, the Koso Rx2N , is not so lot in my garage  ;)

Hello
Updating the status. It is missing only seat cover, sprocket and chain cover.

WOW ..... Top Bike .....  yes, the winter ist very long in finnland  ;D ;D ;D

Hello
Yeah thank you, when the winter is long enough so it's time to ski and build one motorcycle, so it have happened for the six winter.

Hello
Now it is ready, today the bike was inspected and approved to the road traffic.I guess that the inspection is different than in Germany and in the other lands, but it was exact , the structure also checked accurately,to the brakes had to be done the test before because the frame has been changed unsprung,the deceleration and the behavior of the bike in braking event.The pipe material must be certificate as well as the welder must be qualified,etc.etc..


Ballyhoo only 96 dB !!!!

Not exactly what I'd build to suit my taste, but definitely a testimonial of craftsmanship!

Hi Markku, well done! A very nice bike! ;)

Hello
Thank you.
The great thing if you please the other also.

Hello

During the winter I should clean and paint the engine and fix the broken starter but before I dismantled the engine of the body I make a small change in the exhaust pipe.Initially the pipeline was from the beginning to the end of the 38mm OD but now I change it from the Y branch forward 45 mm OD.
In good time however I ask that is it in the engine something to check when I take the it out of the chassis?
Between in the rear cylinder and cylinder head in the left side and rear is a oil leak so however it I have to be open.
For instance is in the cam chain or in the tensioners something what I should take into account, or in the engine bearings or in elsewhere?
The engine I think that works pretty well, mileage is not known, but in any case more than 100 000 it is.
I asked this same thing in the Yamaha Custom Club Finland forum but I did not get any answers therefore I now turn to this forum because I know that here I can get certainly answers but it would have been easier in Finnish language.

I also do not know the acquisition of the parts required places so also those allowed to propose.
I'll be back when I have got some answers and was taken the engine away from the body.

Hello
Now the engine is on the table but no-one engine expert has not yet responded, please share your experiences which parts have been generally need to be replaced.

The engine quite literally lasts forever. Only things I had to deal with was camshaft- and rocker-wear, if you suffer from rather rattly heads and low compression it might be sensible to put in new valves (and seals of course). I had to swap pistons once, but the bike had 89.000km on the clock back then AND had been crashed before, so it's rather likely that it has covered even a lot more.

As long as there's enough oil in the engine, the only reason to touch the crank is because you want to swap in one from the 1100 (you need the 1100 pistons and cylinders as well) as I they're sized like in a small lorry, rather than just a car.

The real Achilles' heel of the bike is the starting system, but you never mentioned experiencing trouble with that, so...

Hope this helps.
Greg

Hello
The first thank you for your reply.
In think that in the engine is good pressings, now I can not measure them because the start clutch is broken.
Oil the engine does not consume.
Cylinder heads are to be intended  to remove, and at the same time they can be checked as well as camshaft- and rocker-wear.
Is it the different makes of seal series differences, what makes have you used?

I'll be back when the work progresses.

I used some special Viton-valve stem seals, which I bought in the United States on ebay.

Search for "XV920 viton valve stem seals", mine are made of blue-ish / green-ish viton rubber and should last a lot longer than the stock stuff. These are the same I use for V8 and recently in a Porsche Boxer engine re-build and especially in the boxer they completely cured the blue smoke on startup.

Good quality OEM or generic one are probably fine too, but I had to order some seals for the Porsche anyway, so it didn't cost extra.

Cheers,
Greg

Hello
There was not the clutch broken, the shaft is across.
The front cylinder head do not loose from,the front and left side bolt is apparently rusted, rises a few cents and then is tight,the left-hand sleeve is stuck in the action.
Where should I buy a new starter motor or whether somebody for sale?

Hello

Now are the sylinder heads and the cylinders disconnected.What are the plastic tubes that are on the long bolts, on the front sylinder bolts was that kind of plastic tubes but not in its rearmost?Are they necessary?

Are these the right parts?

http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/yamaha/xv_1000_tr1_5a8/81-86/picture/starter_motor/

http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/yamaha/xv_1000_tr1_5a8/81-86/picture/gasket_set_-_full_-_pattern/

Hello

Now the engine is cleaned and painted, the exhaust system has been completed and a new starter motor mounted.I did not made any repairs to the engine, only the new gasket set, hopefully the machine has still a lot of miles left.

The "hopefully" dies least......................komma des so schreibn oda is des benglisch?
The exhaust Looks good, but think is a little noisy to the people at the other side of the road.

S.

Hello

In the modification inspection in the last springthe the sound was only 96 dB,let see is the sound louder with the bigger tube,the muffler is same but there is only bigger pipe.
Here should now be at this time a full winter but yesterday was the first frost day,now -6 °C,not snow,and the sun is shining.


Happy New Year to all TR1 entusiast :  Markku